Wednesday, November 24, 2010

A Memorable Sojourn in Vigan

Vigan is one of the most notable places not only in the Philippines, but also in the world. I’m just fortunate that I was able to tour the place before leaving the country. This world heritage town has many interesting spots to offer to visitors. The food is great too.

To Vigan Plaza Hotel

From Laoag, we rode on a bus, which takes about 2 hours to reach Vigan. If i remember it correctly, the fare was around PHP 120.00. It was already dark when we reached Vigan, good thing I have already booked a place to stay, the Vigan Plaza Hotel. This hotel is worth mentioning as it offers great hospitality to people who visit Vigan. You can actually check out this hotel on Google.

We were very hungry, so we chose to dine at the hotel’s bistro. That makes the hotel really convenient for travelers like us, as we didn't have to go to another bistro or restaurant just to dine. We had bagnet for dinner. For those who don’t know what bagnet is, it’s actually the Ilocano version of the popular lechon kawali. It was served with bagoong, although we didn’t think that mixing it with lechon kawali was a good idea.

Funny-sounding Dishes


There were two dishes which really had me and Bob grinning. Those were “poque poque” and “pipian”. You probably don’t understand why these names are funny if you’re not from the Philippines. Bob, on the other hand, couldn't seem to say poque poque right. He mistakenly said “pok pok,” a Pinoy slang term for a female prostitute, which had the waiters chortling.

poque poque

Anyway, poque poque is actually a tasty dish popular in Laoag and Vigan. It’s made of eggplant, scrambled eggs, garlic, onion, and tomatoes. Pipian is another popular dish that’s made of chicken and ground rice. This is originally a Mexican delicacy, but a lot of people say the Vigan version tastes better. We also had kilawin, which I think is a side dish that’s popular all over the country. However, there are regional versions of this dish. I guess the one in Vigan deserves to be checked out.

A Walk Along Calle Crisologo

We couldn't spend the night without taking a leisurely walk along Calle Crisologo. The Vigan Plaza Hotel is actually along this classic street, which retains the Spanish Era ambiance. This street is a major tourist attraction not just in Vigan, but in the whole country as well.  Calle Crisologo is lined with handicraft shops. If you’re lucky, you could get souvenirs at reasonable prices.

Crisologo Museum – Getting a Glimpse of the Past


The following day, we had our breakfast at the hotel, then we walked to the Crisologo Museum. The Crisologo Museum is also known as the Vigan House National Historical Institute Branch. This used to be home to Floro S. Crisologo, a statesman. Now, it serves as a museum that displays family memorabilia as well as historical artifacts. The descendants of Floro S. Crisologo, together with the National Historical Institute, continue to manage the museum. The museum is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9am to 5pm.

Various artifacts caught our attention. One was the Crisologo car where the pregnant Governor Carmeling Crisologo, wife of Floro Crisologo, was ambushed in 1961. She survived the incident. However, 9 years later, her husband was killed in a church. The child Carmeling was rearing at that time, was named Bullet Crisologo.

The wooden fridge was interesting. I keep wondering how a wooden fridge actually works.



There was also a box that was filled with shattered fragments of a bombshell that fell 18 feet behind the Co Maintenance Office on February. Several parts of the building actually have holes due to the explosion.
The house looks really old, but is well maintained to remain sturdy. Heirloom furnishing could be seen in different rooms, and there are old portraits and photographs. There are a lot of people who haven’t heard of the Crisologo family. The visit to their ancestral domicile provides a peek of how these people used to live.

Getting a Peek Inside Villa Angela

We left the museum and proceeded with our walking tour. While we were walking, we noticed Villa Angela. It was actually one of the few places that we were contemplating to stay, so we decided to check it out.Villa Angela Heritage House is another legacy house in Vigan. The mansion was built in 1859, and now it has become a place where travelers can stay. It stands within a two-thousand-square-meter lot and is one good example of a Vigan heritage house. It has a rich collection of historical objects and memorabilia.

When we went to Villa Angela, there was no one there, and the place sort of picked an eerie ambiance. The living room looked clean and the furniture was in order. The wooden floor was sleek, and the walls were well maintained. Furnishings included a classic table and rocking chairs. The place might have been home to music-lovers as there was an old harp alongside a piano.


From the outside, the house bestows a classic Spanish Era look, just like the Crisologo Mansion. Both mansions have shown signs of weathering, despite maintenance efforts. We saw various houses which share the same external features—brick walls and Capiz shell windows.

The sweltering weather didn’t get in the way of our seemingly endless walk to see various sights in Vigan. But we stopped by Max’s Restaurant and helped ourselves to Halo-Halo, a popular Pinoy dessert that is a mixture of crushed ice, beans and fruits, and milk served in a bowl.



Cathedral of Vigan


After Bob’s haircut at David’s Salon, we headed to the Cathedral of Vigan, a church built in 1641. As it was built in the 1600s, it depicts the baroque-style architecture. This church was destroyed by two earthquakes, one in 1619 and another in 1627. In 1739, the church was also consumed by fire. The construction of the current cathedral took place from 1790 to 1800. It actually became a cathedral when the seat of the Diocese of Nueva Segovia was transferred to Vigan from Cagayan. The front of Vigan Cathedral is picturesque. The interior is even more magnificent. I don’t have the architectural faculties to describe the marvelous interior of the cathedral. Near the cathedral is a famous bell tower, which stands 25 meters high.



Arzobispado Palacio de Nueva Segovia


The Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia covers Ilocos Sur. Vigan City is where the seat of the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia is. It was erected in 1595 in the city of Nueva Segovia, now known as Lal-lo, Cagayan. It was, however, transferred to Vigan in 1758 after the request of Bishop Juan de la Fuente Yepes. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, so we just took pictures of the exterior.

St. Augustine Parish Church


The calesa is a popular form of transportation in Vigan. One can ride on a calesa for 150 pesos an hour. We rode on one in our way to St. Augustine Parish Church, which is one of the oldest churches in Ilocos Sur. The church is not in Vigan actually but in Bantay, a nearby municipality. This was named after the patron saint of the Augustinian friars. The church was destroyed during the Second World War but was reconstructed in 1950.


Also known as Bantay Church, it is one of the most beautiful churches in the country. I guess I share the same opinion as most other visitors. We didn’t miss the chance to get to the bell tower, which stands on the highest point in town. The top of the belfry gives a picturesque view of the town of Bantay, although the open windows may trigger nausea in some people.

A Taste of Vigan Empanada


A trip to Vigan wouldn’t be complete without having a serving of the popular Vigan Empanada, which is ubiquitous in Vigan. The empanada may be sold by vendors who also sell Vigan Ukoy, which is another delicacy that is actually made of small shrimps mixed with beaten egg, spring onions, and rice flour fried to become tasty, crispy food. We just helped ourselves.

A Moment at the Syquia Mansion


The following day, after seeing some of the gift shops in Calle Crisologo, we decided it was time to go back to Syquia Mansion. The first time we went there, it was closed. The calesa driver told us to ring the doorbell so the caretaker inside the mansion could let us in.

For those who know little about Philippine History, Vigan is the birthplace of Elpidio Quirino, the 6th president of the Philippines. Portraits of the late former president and of the members of the Syquia family fill the walls of the mansion.


The Syquia Mansion was actually owned by Doňa Alicia Quirino, the wife of former President Quirino. The ancestor of Doňa Quirino was Sy Kia, a Chinese man who prospered through trade. His portrait which shows him in traditional Chinese robes could be seen in the old mansion. Sy Kia later became Syquia as the descendants took on the Spanish version of the surname.

Just like all the other historical mansions in Vigan, Syquia Mansion holds memories of Hispanic custom once lived by the Filipinos. The mansion gave us a glimpse of the elegance and class once enjoyed within its walls.
The mansion can be found by walking along Crisologo Street to Gordion Inn. Once you find the two-floor mansion in blue and cream painting in the corner of Quirino Boulevard, you should know that you’re looking at the famous Syquia Mansion.

This current Quirino family still lives in the house, and they have used modern furniture in the kitchen and dining room.

Various antique displays can be seen inside the mansion, and these came from different parts of the world. On the other hand, there are paintings by Fernando Amorsolo as well as a huge replica of Spolarium, Juan Luna’s masterpiece. You can get inside the mansion for free, but donations are accepted.

Arce Mansion


As we wanted to really get the colonial feel while in Vigan, we stopped by another Hispanic mansion. We are talking about a lavish mansion where you can experience what it is like to dine during the colonial period.
We were taken to the costume room, where there are various garbs, so one can choose to wear any of the costumes for the various classes of citizens during the Spanish regime. There were garbs for an indio, an ilustrado, a gobernadorcillo, or a monk. I just wondered how women a long time ago were able to endure the uncomfortably warm clothes. You can dine and wear the outfits, but 2 days reservation is required, so we opted to just rent the costumes and have some pictures taken.



An Escapade in Baluarte

The next stop was a popular destination for visitors in Vigan. Baluarte is about 80 hectares vast, an expanse of rolling hills where facilities are built to cater to visitors. Development of the attraction continues. The best thing about Baluarte is there is no entrance fee—because it’s Governor Chavit Singson’s gift to the people of Vigan. In fact, the free spaces can be used by interested residents for livelihood programs.

We had the chance to tour the place riding on a small horse-driven carriage. There were dinosaur statues in the place, but what caught my attention was the tamed tigers. Bob warned me not to go near any of them because they are not completely harmless. People can interact with the animals at the zoo. Some of the animals are the crested serpent eagle, Siberian Bengal tiger, green iguana, sugar glider, binturong, albino Burmese python, and eastern bearded dragon.



Padre Jose Burgos Museum


Our last stop before leaving Vigan was the Padre Burgos Museum. One of the three martyr priests executed in 1872 left something for the modern people to see. The ancestral house of Father Burgos is today’s Burgos Museum. But the house was not inherently his because it was owned by Don Juan Gonzales and Doña Florentina Gascon, his grandparents. The funds to maintain the structure were meager, but the house remains and still entertains visitors, like us, who want to get a peek of history.

The museum contains the memorabilia of the martyr priest as well as notable artifacts and records. We also found antique collections, which are common in all colonial house museums in Vigan. There are relief sculptures of saints, too. Historical events are represented in dioramas, displayed with the hall of fame for the important Ilocano people, including heroes and achievers.

All the heritage mansions really made our trip to Vigan worthwhile. It was awe-inspiring to see historical figures preserved for this generation to see. This sojourn will surely be fondly remembered. And we left with souvenirs, too!

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